HELM
Perhaps the most beautiful thing on the water in Fremantle
On a weekend warmed by what felt like the most summery weather Perth has enjoyed in months, the ATE. team decided that a long lunch next to the ocean was in order. What a good opportunity to pay a visit to Helm, the new bar and restaurant that's taken over what used to be Little Creatures Next Door, just adjacent to the brewery mothership. It opened in late 2018, presumably right in time for the balmy holiday period, but with the protracted onset of winter this year we've never really felt the urge to go – until now.
You wouldn’t call the building grandiose, but the outlook and interiors, courtesy of Freo-based studio Design Theory, are stunning. The restaurant is perched above the harbour; views are across the water at the orange-hulled fishing boats and rows of private yachts with stupid names. Inside, the large room is made more airy by high, vaulted ceilings - but the space is busy with light timber furniture, beautiful hanging lamps, several large fabric couches replete with textured throws and decorative pillows, and an internal loggia anchored by low brise soleil walls. Colours lean toward the oceanic - think whites, teals and deep greens - and chic interior design touches are everywhere, from the myriad of foliage to the modish circular booths. There’s a large fireplace girt by stone to ensure that a winter boathouse vibe will prevail come the colder months, and some al fresco seating which will no doubt get a hammering when summer rolls around. Big windows allow constant water views.
“…got the tastebuds firing…”
The menu is split into three sections – share plates, wood fire grill and dessert – with most of the dishes falling under the share plate heading, although that's not to say that the more substantial grill dishes shouldn't or can't be shared. The share plate list runs the gamut from oysters and olives through dips and snacks to more substantial salad and seafood offerings. There is a chef's menu option, but we decided to pick and choose a few things ourselves. Crispy pork belly with chili caramel and black sesame ($16) got the tastebuds firing; little cubes of crispy, crackly meat, layered with rich caramel sauce, dressed with sesame seeds, coriander and sliced red chili. As you can imagine, it’s the sauce that makes or breaks this dish, and it was sublime indeed – sticky, sweet and darkly flavoured. A plate of ribboned zucchini ($16) piled atop smashed white beans and pimped with feta, olive and lemon was a class in textures and subtle flavours. A scattering of crushed nuts gave grit and crunch in contrast to the folds of veg and the soft beans. Acidity from the lemon played out against the creaminess of the feta, but the masterstroke here was the inclusion of dill, giving the dish a fresh lift.
“…the masterstroke here was the inclusion of dill”
Another vegetable number, billed as eggplant salad with pomegranate, walnut and sesame ($16) was fine by comparison, although some may find the mushy texture challenging. Pale eggplant flesh, scooped from the veggie's innards, came heaped in a bowl, dressed with sesame oil, walnuts, and bright pomegranate seeds. Served at room temp, the flesh on its own teetered towards blandness – it was rescued by the sharp citrus bursts from the seeds and the nutty crunch of the walnuts. I anticipate some will find this dish relatively palatable (like me), for others, it won't be a highlight.
From the wood fire grill section of the carte we opted for market fish – skin-on goldband snapper at a pretty reasonable $32. The fish was served atop baby kipfler potatoes surrounded by an extremely moreish lemon, caper and butter sauce. It was a crime that a spoon wasn't provided, or perhaps some sort of long straw, as drinking the leftover sauce from the bowl isn't really an option in a place you'd wish to return to. The fish could have maybe been taken off the heat a minute or two sooner, but the skin was charred and crispy and flavoursome and again, that sauce, bloody hell. It's creamy and tangy and salty all at once. I’ll have a pint, thanks.
“…some will find this dish relatively palatable…”
We also ordered two scallops but sadly I can't tell you about them because they just never showed up. Neither did they appear on the bill, so perhaps it was a brainfade on the part of our waiter – not the sort of thing we'd be inclined to get upset about in the context of a meal made up of shared plates, but a cause for concern if it had been a forgotten entrée or main forming part of a more structured lunch or dinner. It was also odd because the service was otherwise fine; the same waiter had confidently answered questions about the menu, and promptly handled other requests. In the dessert section, there were four options – an éclair, crumble, an orange cake and chocolate crème with mousse. Nothing jumped out at us, but I'm sure they'd be decent enough.
Helm is very on-trend. The space is gorgeous – light-filled, aquatic colours, designer furniture, perched above the water. Everything comes out on those dishes that could either be plates or bowls, depending on your perspective, and look like they were uncovered during an archaeological dig. You know the ones I mean. There's nothing too surprising on the menu, but the food is pretty good – cleanly presented with well-balanced, strong flavours and simple but quality ingredients. Most importantly, a bit of thought has gone into each plate. Serves aren’t huge, but prices aren’t out of the park either, so bear that in mind. For what you get it’s good value. It's easy to imagine that Helm will be a hot ticket for 21sts, anniversaries, work parties, romantic dinners and long, lazy Freo lunches for a good while to come. I can already see myself on the balcony, Negroni in hand, as a hazy afternoon breaks into a warm night with all the gentleness of the waves below.